Duluth Dish welcomes food farmer Janna Goerdt
I’m pleased to announce that Northern Minnesota journalist-turned-farmer Janna Goerdt has agreed to contribute writing to Duluth Dish.
Janna runs a small food farm with her husband in Embarrass, a remote hamlet nationally notable because in winter, it’s often the coldest spot in the lower 48 states. Here’s how good she is: she has had ripe tomatoes for weeks now.
Between bouts of weeding and harvesting, Janna will chronicle her experiences and musings about what it means to grow food in this time and place.
Her first piece should be up in a day or so — just wanted to let you know so you don’t miss it!
Tom
Doug Dalager Takes The Shack Smoke Free
Wisconsin Governor Jim Doyle signed a proclamation at The Shack declaring that establishment a safe and healthy smoke-free workplace and clean air zone for its employees and customers on Friday, July 10th.
The Shack’s owner Doug Dalager has decided to go smoke-free one entire year before the state-wide smoke-free law goes into effect. Dalager, owner of The Shack for the past four years, has chosen to take a leadership role on the issue of clean air and hospitality. “I am elated that Wisconsin is finally going smoke-free, but rather than wait for an entire year for the law to take effect, I am moving ahead on my own,” said Dalager. “I saw the positive effect that Minnesota’s smoke-free law has had on restaurants and bars in Duluth, and came to recognize this was a good business decision. I also want to protect my employees from secondhand smoke and provide my customers a clean and healthy environment in which to dine.”
SmokeFree Wisconsin, other health organizations and Governor Doyle applaud the decision to go smoke-free for public health. Also attending the event were local elected officials, Senator Bob Jauch and Representative Nick Milroy, who were co-sponsors of the statewide smoke-free law. “I am proud to sign the smoke-free proclamation at The Shack,” said Governor Jim Doyle. “This is a long-established community resource that has chosen to be ahead of the curve on smoke-free air. I applaud their effort to protect the health of their employees and customers.”
Wisconsin’s smoke-free air law was signed by Doyle on May 18, 2009. The law will go into effect statewide for all workplaces, including restaurants and taverns on July 5, 2010. The Shack however has elected to go smoke-free on July 10, 2009, one year before the law takes effect.
The Shack will also host a fund-raiser for the American Cancer Society on Monday, July 20th featuring the Big Time Jazz Orchestra. For more information regarding this “good time for a good cause”, call (218) 529-7627, ext. 15.
Ah, summer in Duluth, time for breakfast
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Living on the western shores of Lake Superior, Northlanders justify a hearty breakfast with myriad excuses:
Cold wind off the lake. Long summer day ahead. Long winter night ahead. It's raining. It's foggy. It's sunny. It's snowing, in May.
I've used them all, but the handiest excuse for me is this: "Dang, I've been fasting for 8 hours. "
Here's my breakfast baseline: hot, fresh, fast. Eggs exactly as ordered. Real butter, clean table ware. Strong, fresh coffee. Everything else is ... bacon fat in the pan.
I discovered most of these places through my former newspaper column and some I haven't visited in awhile. But most still appear to be in good hands.
There are two obvious omissions from this list -- Pizza Luce and Hell's Kitchen. I've heard about the brie-stuffed French toast and Sunday brunch at the former; I've had the Manohmin Porridge and from-scratch preserves at the latter. But I haven't personally experienced a full breakfast at either place. (Maybe a follow-up article is in order.)
That said, here are some of my favorite Northland breakfast restaurants. What are yours?
Vanilla Bean Bakery & Café
812 7th Ave., Two Harbors, MN (218) 834-3714)A straightforward-looking café, the Vanilla Bean offers the most decadent omelet I’ve ever tasted. It’s a baked, not crepe-style, and it’s puffy, rich and full of delectable fillings, whether it’s the Mediterranean, the Yucatan or the Green Eggs and Ham (pesto, green onions – you get the idea). Area chef Scott Graden designed much of the menu before he went on to open the New Scenic Café. (The walleye and bread pudding are tops on the lunch and dinner menu.) www.thevanillabean.comUncle Louis’ Café
520 E. 4th St., Duluth, MN (218) 727-4518)This neighborhood short-order grill in Duluth’s Central Hillside brought my love of Greek culture and eggs together in one dish: the Gyros Omelet. This classic neighborhood joint, rebuilt in 2007 after a fire, also serves up nutmeg-kissed pancakes with a bewitching flavor profile.The Delta Diner
14385 Bayfield County Highway H, Delta, Wis. (715) 372-6666 (MMMM))This is a 1941 Silk City diner car, refurbished, plunked in the middle of the Town of Delta, 12 miles south of Iron River, Wis., on County Highway HH. The weird urban/rural juxtaposition is as striking as the menu contrasts – straight up omelets, Norwegian pancakes and weekend prime rib and fish fry specials lie next to more unusual items like Memphis barbecue, New Orleans red beans and rice and Hungarian goulash. My son and I always fight for the last of the sautéed pears over ice cream. Wait, that’s not breakfast. Never mind. www.deltadiner.comSunshine Cafe
5719 Grand Ave, Duluth, MN 55807-2541 (218) 624-7013There's nothing faux about the retro feel at the Sunshine Cafe. It's all real. The only thing lacking is layers of grease on the windows, cigarette smoke, and surly wait staff. This tidy, bright, friendly cafe serves up right-sized breakfasts (try the omelets or Swedish pancakes), made-from-scratch hot sandwiches, burgers, pie and hand-breaded walleye. If you're still in need of a lift, check out the wall 'o' inspirational Post-It notes toward the back.Swamp Sisters Shop
7249 Industrial Rd, Saginaw, MN 55779 (218) 729-0088Tucked inside a small barn on a historic farmstead in Twig, a few dozen miles outside Duluth, the Swamp Sisters restaurant is only open 8 a.m. to 2 p.m. Fridays and Saturdays, April through November. It started as a way to sell some of the bison one of the sisters raises. The bison’s still part of the store, but now, dishes like Bonnie’s Swamp Skillet (with buffalo sausage) and Siggi’s Salsa Salad pull in the senior-centric crowd. You’ll probably share a shabby-chic antique dining room table with another party. And you’ll probably like it. www.swampsisters.comDuluth Grill
118 S. 27th Ave. W., Duluth MN (Phone 218-726-1150)The Duluth Grill has chucked its link to the old Ember’s greasy spoon chain and forged out on its own. It wasn’t much of a stretch; the menu was mostly created by the Hanson family anyway. It’s now a 100-percent small neighborhood restaurant focusing on the fresh ingredients, from-scratch cooking, numerous low-fat and low-cholesterol options and even a substantial vegetarian menu. Yes, they still have burgers and big breakfasts. But you might just be tempted to order ‘em with red flannel hash (with beets, people), or a side of fruit – or have your omelets yolk-free. My son Isaac loves the fish; we all used to love the edamame (soybeans in the pod) before they were pulled from the menu.
Still, it’s on my family’s Top 10 list.
(Website under construction: www.duluthgrill.com)
Larry’s Café and Coneys
4899 Miller Trunk Highway, No. 100, Duluth, MN Phone: 218-740-1010 Café owner Larry Davis says he’s going for “a home-cooking-style café like the little corner cafes that used to be around here.” Although he uses a mix for pancakes, he loads them with enough of the plump, tart orbs to turn your teeth purple. Eggs come out fast and the coffee's topped off before it has a chance to cool. For lunch and dinner, Larry serves up real mashed potatoes, gravy and oven-baked meats for hot pork, beef and turkey sandwiches. Speaking of turkey: Every Sunday is a full turkey dinner made with real roasted turkey breast, not turkey roll, for $6.99. For $1 extra, you get a salad. Although he's not Greek, Davis worked for the Regas family for 37 years at Duluth’s Coney Island restaurant before striking out with his own café a few years ago. “I make my own sauce for the gyros, and also for Coneys,” he said. Between the gyros items and the Coneys, “People say mine are the best they’ve had around town,” Davis says.The Egg Toss
41 Manypenny Ave., Bayfield, WI 54814 (715) 779-5181Casual class is how I’d describe the Egg Toss. The menu’s sophisticated enough to serve The Crabby Benny -- Eggs Benedict, substituting a crabe cake for the Canadian bacon -- and huevos rancheros with green chile sauce, but down-to-earth enough to have the Fisherman’s Platter, a typical down-home breakfast combo and the restaurant’s most popular entrée. The Egg Toss and Maggie’s, another Bayfield restaurant, share two full-time bakers in the summer and they crank out artisan bread, croissants, cinnamon and caramel rolls and assorted pastries daily. www.eggtoss-bayfield.comBang for your Buck
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Lately, I’ve been getting a lot of questions about value wines. Wine drinkers are looking to get the most bang for their buck.
My favorite value country is Chile (actually Chile is probably my favorite wine producing country regardless of price). Concha Y Toro is the largest vineyard in Chile covering over 17,300 acres. They produce wines at all different price levels; the most inexpensive being Frontera, the #1 Chilean wine in the United States. 
You can find Frontera at all local liquor stores; it is mostly sold in the larger1.5L bottles for around $10. Frontera produces many different varietals, their most popular is their Cabernet/Merlot blend. This spring they released a Malbec, making them the only 1.5L Malbec in the United States market. The whites, Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay are very popular during the summer time and the reds, Carmenere (which put Chile on the map), Merlot, Cabernet, and Shiraz are popular year round. Next in line for Concha Y Toro is Estate Reserve Casillero del Diablo, which is available at all local liquor stores, in the regular 750mL size, for around $10. 
In the 19th century, Concha Y Toro founder Don Melchor discovered his workers were stealing and sampling his greatest wines. This led him to hide his greastest wines in Casillero del Diablo - Cellar of the Devil. Just like Frontera, Casillero del Diablo is known for their reds including; Carmenere, Cabernet, Shiraz, Merlot, and Malbec. In addition, Casillero del Diablo offers a Pinot Noir which is simply delightful. In addition to Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay, Casillero del Diablo offers a Gewurtztraminer. This Gewertz is dry with some spice to it, making it perfect for sushi or to simply sip on a hot summer patio. Along with great prices Concha Y Toro frequently receives “Best Value” and “Best Buy” along 85+ point ratings on both Frontera and Casillero del Diablo. I’m not finished with Chilie yet; there is still one more vineyard to look at, Santa Rita. 
Santa Rita’s best-selling “120” series recalls the heroes of a pivotal event in Chile’s successful 19th century struggle to overthrow Spanish rule. In the early 1800s, Doña Paula Jaraquemada, then proprietor of the Santa Rita manor house and estate near the Chilean capital of Santiago, famously gave refuge in the cellars of her property to 120 Chilean patriots, following a fierce fight with soldiers of the Spanish Crown. When a brigade of Spanish soldiers arrived at the expansive one-story ranch house in search of O’Higgins and his band of rebels, the feisty matriarch stated she would rather see the Spanish burn the property to the ground, with her inside, then let them step foot within her family home. Thus, O’Higgins and his band of 120 men lived on to fight another day. Santa Rita 120 is found in all local liquor stores, in the regular 750mL size, for around$10. It offers Cabernet Sauvignon, Cermenere, Merlot, and Shiraz. However, it is most known for Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc. Recent awards include; Carmenere 2007 “Extreme Value” Wine & Spirits Magazine; Sauvignon Blanc 2007 “Best Buy” 87 pts, Wine Enthusiast; and Cahrdonnay 2007 “Best Buy” Wine Spectator.
Don’t rule out boxes! Box wine had a very negative stigma for a long time but now that stigma is changing. The stigma is changing for good reason! Good quality wines are being put into boxes. Keep in mind that a 3L box is equal to 4 bottles of wine! Boxes better preserve wine because the bag does not allow oxygen to get in. Also, you do not have to deal with the problem of corks; having to always remember a corkscrew, difficulty removing the cork, breakage, or cork tant. If you are trying to be “green” boxes are definitely the way to go - they greatly reduce transportation costs and thus carbon emissions. Here are the numbers: 55% less carbon footprint, 3L box requires 1/2 the emissions of the 750mL to create, and 85% less landfill waste. Another point is that living in Minnesota many of our local parks do not allow glass - so drink in public with boxes! About a year ago Italy’s 
Agricultural Ministry announced some wines would now be able to be sold in boxes! Italy!! Introducing Bibo, the first premium 3L from Italy. Pronounced BEE- BO, it is Latin for “I Drink.” from the island of Sicily Bibo brings two blends, a Cabernet/Shiraz and Pinot Grigio/Chardonnay. Priced just above $20 ($5/bottle) it is available at Cashwise Duluth. Funf is a QBA
Riesling from Schmitt Sohne vineyards in Germany. Also brand new on the market it is a croud pleaser. Priced around $20 it is available at Mount Royal and Cashwise. It’s 5 o’clock somewhere! Last but not least, is Andes Peak from my favorite value country Chile. Andes Peak is also new to the market, offering Cabernet, Merlot, and Chardonnay. The winery is ISO14001 certified which means they practice sustainable agriculture and natural pest mangement. They are also certified IMO for life which means Andes Peak provides nuturing and fair working conditions for all workers. 
I hope this list gives you some new ideas to try. So get out and try some tonight. Cheers!
Eating Local
There are many restaurants in Duluth that should be recognized for their efforts to bring great wine to their patrons.
The newest addition to the downtown area is Kippis. Kippis is a Finnish Tapas Bar that takes pride in unique cocktails and world class wine. The wine list is short and simple while still providing something for everyone. Talk to Ari, Peter, or any of their expert staff and they will pair wines or wine flights with your tapas. Kippis is the only restaurant in town that serves a free amuse bouche, of Cava and Scandinavian breads.
At Sara’s Table / Chester Creek Cafe opened their new wine bar a little over a year ago. They recently started changing their menu every few months to focus on different world regions. Chefs, Mike and Bruce, select new wines especially with their featured dishes in mind. These pairing can be found on their menu which makes selecting the correct wine very simple.
Last but not least, Bellisio’s Italian Restaurant and Wine Bar. For the past eight years they have earned Wine Spectator’s “Best of Excellence” award. In addition to their fabulous Italian wines, such as Bertani Secco Valpolicella and Fonterutoli Badiola, they offer wines from all of the large wine producing areas of the world. Not sure what to order? Their knowledgeable staff will help guide you or you could always order one of their many wine flights and sample a few wines.
Get out and support our local restaurants today!
